How Most Shoes Are Not Made

The skilled craftsmen at our workshop in Tuscanny use over 200 steps to create the perfect shoe. Read on to learn how we make our shoes.

STEP 1 - DESIGN - The creation of a new piece of footwear is the outcome of a development process that first and foremost involves the figure of the designer, whose task is to stay one step ahead of popular tastes and trends.The designer establishes and oversees the style of the collections, shapes and determines the look of the footwear, and works to attain the very best results from the skill of the individual craftspeople who carry out the processes that go into a quality shoe. The creative team at Masciangelo assesses, interprets and develops all the ideas that come together to create footwear of superlative quality

STEP 2 - CUTTING THE VAMP - The vamp, or upper, is the top part of a shoe, consisting in a moulded piece that is sewn to the sole. Cutting (or “clicking”) the vamp is a task that only a true expert who is deeply familiar with leather can perform with the necessary care, using only the finest part of the hide. During the operation, the cutter must follow the “grain”, i.e., the texture of the leather, to make the shoes as supple and durable as possible. Selecting the best sections of leather also entails a greater degree of waste, and thus higher production costs. 

STEP 3 - CLOSING - Closing is the step of sewing together the various components that make up the vamp and its lining. The individual pieces are first glued together, making it possible to flatten out the overlaid sections before sewing. The closing process also allows reinforcements, made of leather or other materials, to be inserted into the upper at the points subject to the greatest stress, to make the shoe sturdy and comfortable. This long, expensive process is what sets high-quality shoes apart, giving them a harmonious, elegant, perfectly finished look.

STEP 4 - LASTING -  Lasting and making is the complex process of putting together the individual components of the shoe, and involves a series of steps aimed at making the leather fit perfectly to the last. In lasting, the upper is joined first to the insole and then to the sole, a process we will examine below. Masciangelo uses only leather or natural skin insoles to ensure maximum comfort for your feet. Once assembled, the shoe moves on to the finishing stage.

STEP 5 - PREPERATION FOR ATTACHING THE SOLE - Preparation for attaching the sole Once the upper is mounted on the last and joined to the insole, the part that will house the sole is roughened to allow for a stronger bond. Moreover, to create a uniform surface of contact between the upper and the sole, a cork lining is inserted that not only allows the foot to breathe, but prevents the formation of moisture and makes the shoe feel softer and more flexible when walking

STEP 6 - ATTACHING THE SOLE - Application of the sole For outstanding flexibility and greater durability, the soles of Fratelli Borgioli shoes are sewn to the uppers. This is a detail you will find only on high-quality or custom-made shoes.

STEP 7 - FINISHING THE SOLE - Finishing consists in a series of operations that are carried out at the end of the production cycle. In this process, both the edges and underside of the sole are hand-finished using all-natural stains and waxes. This operation is a lengthy one, between brushing and staining with one or two pigments, but gives the shoe perfect breathability, flexibility and elegance. All of our soles are made of natural leather.

STEP 8 - FINISHING THE UPPER - The final operation, and perhaps the most important one, is finishing the upper. In order to restore the original characteristics of the leather (shine, softness, etc.) that are inevitably altered in making the shoe, the upper is washed with special, neutral detergents and then treated with waxes and natural creams. There are hundreds of kinds of leather, and many different processes for finishing it. Hand-aged shoes require an elaborate finishing process that makes them elegant, sophisticated, and uniquely appealing. The leather can be bleached in certain spots to create a motif along the seams, or for mottled or two-tone effects, fading from black to brown, etc. If you happened to see this stage, you’d find yourself entranced by the skill of our artisans, whose expert hands give each of our shoes its own unique personality.